Yanmar 2GM20F:  Installation, Alignment, and Hookups (Continued)
This page was last updated on 8 August 2001.


First thing today, I installed the new propeller.  This is the last thing remaining that would prevent the boat from going back in the water.  The new propeller is a three blade Michigan Sailer, 12x13.  It came from a different prop shop than my first one did, so it actually showed up on time.

Now, I moved back inside the boat--armed with an electric fan today to keep things a little cooler.  It's been warmer each day this week--beautiful, but it gets stuffy inside the boat, baking in the dry yard.  First, I hooked up the new alternator.  I had to put new ends on the wires that come from the engine's wiring harness so that I could install them on the new alternator.  Of course, when I went to bolt the alternator on, the bolt that was used to secure the original one wasn't long enough.  I couldn't find anything in my spare parts box that would work, so I had to go out and buy a new bolt to fit.  While I was at it, I picked up a number of other things I needed, including fuel hose barbs, hose clamps, and a new engine throttle cable.  (I'm using the "old" throttle cable for my new shifter, and needed another cable (shorter) for the throttle--remember, the old shift cable on the old Yanmar was a heavy duty, thick one that was incompatible with my new controls.  Read more about the controls here.)

With the new materials in hand, I finished hooking up the alternator.  Now I could hook my batteries back up and have power on board again.  Next, I turned to the fuel system.  I received a new Racor filter with the engine, so I decided to install that one in addition to the one I already had installed.  This required moving the original one so that both would fit, so I removed it and reinstalled both filters next to one another on the side of the engine room.  Next, I rerouted the fuel hose, interconnecting the two filters and finally connecting to the engine lift pump. 

Because the new engine has a normal return line (rather than the old engine, which returned excess fuel only to the engine-mounted filter), I had to reinstall the return line fitting on the fuel tank.  This was an easy job and only took a few minutes.  Then, I connected a final length of fuel hose to the return fittings, secured it out of the way with tie-wraps, and the fuel system was complete!

Next, I moved on to the new instrument panel.  First, I removed the old panel and wiring harness.  Of course, never expecting to have had to remove this panel, I had thoroughly secured the harness with tie-wraps, and the panel was siliconed in place.  It took a little work to remove--I had to cut all the tie-wraps, and slowly pry the panel away from the wooden backer.  The silicone is tenacious, and I damaged the plywood a little.  I guess I'll probably just make a new piece this winter--but it's OK for now.  With the old stuff removed, I used the rubber gasket that came with the new panel to mark its shape on the backer, and cut wiringharness.JPG (145776 bytes)the extra out with my jigsaw.  Then I installed the panel with screws.  I ran the wiring harness aft from the engine room, through the port cockpit locker, and plugged the connectors together.  Simple.

I ran the engine stop cable through the panel, secured the fitting, and then ran the cable down the centerline, beneath the cockpit and fuel tank, down to the engine, where I connected it to the stop lever--the wire just passes through a clamping fitting, and you screw down a setscrew to secure it..  I tied up the excess behind the panel in the lazarette.

Before leaving for the day, I cut out a hole for the new Vetus engine controls.

Please click here to continue the project.

Glissando, Pearson  Triton #381

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