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		Strong Track System 
      
      This page was last updated on 
	  May2, 2009.  | 
     
    
      
      
       
      
      
       In 
      the fall, I had made the decision to order a
      Tides Marine Strong 
      Track system for my mainsail.  This low friction system promised 
      to make mainsail handling a treat, rather than a sometime chore.  I 
      dropped my sail off at my local sail loft, and ordered the system; the 
      loft would install the hardware on the sail, but I picked up the track 
      when it arrived and took it home for my own installation. | 
     
    
      
       
      
       After 
      storing the large, flat box containing the rolled-up track all winter, the 
      time finally came for installation.  Installation was quite 
      straightforward; the  track section simply slides over (or into, if 
      you have an internal track) the existing track.  The way the coiled 
      track is secured, one can cut the ties in such a way as to maintain the 
      integrity of the coil throughout installation, preventing the whole long 
      coil from unwinding at once. | 
     
    
      
       
      
       To 
      install, I simply fed the top part of the track onto the existing bronze 
      mainsail track, and pushed the new plastic track up the mast (with the 
      mast on horses) a little at a time, cutting more of the plastic cable ties 
      as needed to continue working the track up the mast.  In my 
      particular case, the horses were weak, and the force of pushing the track 
      up the mast started causing the horses to collapse.  To stem this, I 
      tied them together with some line I had around, and then tied the whole 
      thing to a nearby trailer to stabilize the whole thing. | 
     
    
      
       
      
       Presently, 
      I reached the end.  As I had suspected, the track was slightly too 
      long--I had ordered 33'.  The directions called for cutting the 
      excess off at the bottom, but I quickly discovered this wouldn't work 
      since the bottom of the track featured a widened cutout to allow 
      installation of the mainsail slugs and a retaining piece.  However, 
      by simply removing the main halyard sheave arrangement at the top of the 
      mast--which was blocking further progress of the track--I could continue 
      pushing the excess track upwards.  It was easy to cut the top end, 
      which had only a bevel at the corner, and then shape the new bevel and 
      redrill for the stop pin, which prevents the sail from being overhoisted. | 
     
    
      
      
       
      
      
       At 
      the bottom, I secured the track in place with a single machine screw (the 
      kit comes with a self-tapping screw for this purpose).  I drilled and 
      tapped the mast for the screw, and drove it home.  Then, I 
      reinstalled the metal plate over the base, which is there to hold the sail 
      slugs in place once installed. | 
     
    
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		 Once 
		the boat was in the water, I had an opportunity to check out the new 
		slugs and batten receptacles.  The stainless steel slugs added 
		slightly to the overall stack height of the sail when stowed, and also 
		caused the sailmaker to remove the jacklines needed to allow the sail to 
		be pulled down far enough to allow hooking on the reefing hook; this was 
		something I would have to take up with them later.
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      Post-Installation 
	  Update 
		I can highly recommend the Strong  
		Track system.  It's simple to install, quite inexpensive, and works 
		like a charm.  I can drop the sail with zero effort; if I let the 
		halyard go, the sail will crash completely down without any interference 
		whatsoever.  After several seasons, all the hardware seems to be 
		holding up well with no signs of wear or other problems. 
		The long and the short of it:  if 
		you're considering a Strong Track, then just buy it.  You won't be 
		disappointed.
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					 UPDATE:  May 2009 
					 Several years ago, when I installed my Strong Track for 
					the mainsail, I ended the track an inch or so below the 
					terminus of the external bronze track--logically and as 
					directed.  This location was 8-10 inches above the 
					height of the gooseneck.  However, I determined that 
					this created a reefing problem:  the stack height of 
					the slugs was such that the reefing ears wouldn't reach the 
					reefing hook, for neither the first nor second reef.
  
					To get around this, I installed a couple shackles that I had 
					on board to extend the first reefing ear enough to allow me 
					to hook it and make it usable.  This was acceptable 
					enough for a few years, but there was no chance of hooking 
					the second reef.  Fortunately, I never needed the 
					second reef during this time.  You can see the reefing 
					ear, the shackles, and the general first reef setup in this 
					photo.  Clearly the slugs needed to come down further. | 
				 
	  
					 
					
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					 I wanted a better 
					solution.  Through my sail loft, I eventually 
					discovered that Tides Marine, maker of the Strong Track, 
					offered an extension for this purpose.  The extension 
					was simply a short length of track that incorporated the 
					wide slug feed at the bottom, with a clip at the top end to 
					secure the two pieces together.  I ordered the 
					appropriate section.
  To install the extension, I 
					first determined where to cut the old track by holding the 
					15" extension in place and marking the old track with tape.  
					This provided enough overlap to remove the old feed section 
					and allow the new extension to slide partway onto the bronze 
					track. | 
				 
	  
					 
					
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					 Next, I unscrewed the 
					single screw that held the track in place at the bottom, and 
					slid the existing track down enough to allow me to cut off 
					the track at my mark. | 
				 
	  
					 
					
					     
					
					  
					 
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					 Then, I 
					slid on the extension and double-checked my placement (I 
					left the new bottom of the track about 2" above the 
					gooseneck to avoid clearance issues when loading the slugs), 
					and then drilled two holes through the track (which extend 
					through the solid center portion of the track) for the slim 
					bolts provided, which secured the two pieces of track 
					together.  Finally, I drilled and tapped at the bottom 
					of the track for a new screw with which to secure the end. 
					 There ended up being a slight seam at the joint, caused 
					by imperfect cuts on one or both pieces of track, but since 
					this seam was at the bottom of the track, and easily 
					reachable, I didn't see any problem with it even if the 
					slugs should hang up slightly.  But now the stacked 
					slugs would extend nearly to the gooseneck, which would make 
					reefing (both reef points) much easier and also reduce the 
					overall stack height when the sail was lowered, which would 
					have the side benefit of easing pressure on my sailcover, 
					which barely covered the old stack height.
  I'll 
					report more once I see this in practice this season. | 
				 
	  
					 
					
					     
					
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