Deck Hardware Installation

This page was last updated on 8 May 2010

Mooring Bit and Chocks     Mainsheet Traveler     Winch Stands     Cockpit Locker Hasps

Stern Cleats and Chocks     Bronze Cowl Vent

Mooring Bit and Chocks

Well, I splurged (big surprise there, right?) and bought a great 7" bronze mooring bit for the bow.   It weighs a ton, looks classic and great, and I think it will be a nice addition, as well as supremely functional.   

You can source an identical bit from Hamilton Marine.  Model # BKA-01MB7X7, Catalog Item # 103684.  (I had so many requests for info on this bit that I figured it would be helpful to put the information right here!)

I installed the bit with some 1/2" bolts.  Because the bit is over the forward end of the vee berth, any bolts and backing plates will be exposed.  To make the installation as attractive as possible, I made a wooden backing plate out of some left over 8/4 mahogany (roughly 2" thick).  I mooringbitbacking.JPG (144072 bytes) made the backing block larger than the base of the mooring bit.  Of course, I did the usual preparation to the boltholes before finally securing the bit to the deck--ream out the core, replace with epoxy, redrill.

I also installed new bronze Skene chocks at the stem, one on each side.  I didn't like the design of the old ones--I'm a stickler for traditional (and highly fair and effective) Skene chocks.  Using a line tied to the mooring bit, I decided upon the best, most fair location (sounds like something out of Snow White) and attached the chocks to the toerail with screws and caulk.  Later, I'll install some stainless or bronze chafe protectors to parts of the anchor platform to keep mooring lines from chafing.

The bronze Skene chocks are also from Hamilton Marine.   Model # BKA-01BC600S, Catalog Item # 103654.

Mainsheet Traveler

Thanks to Jeff--Kaynee, # 30--I became the proud owner of a very nice, unused--but 10-year old--Schaefer mainsheet traveler.  It is a beefy arrangement, and is already curved and cut to length to fit perfectly at the aft end of the cockpit between the coamings.  What a find!

I installed the traveler in a bed of polysulfide with sixteen 1/4" x 2" stainless steel machine screws, secured from beneath with a full-length backing plate that came with the traveler, stainless fender washers and bolts.  The installation was fairly straightforward--a matter of marking the holes, drilling, masking off and installing.  I could do it by myself by turning the screws from above while holding a wrench in place beneath, reaching through the access panel in the vertical aft end of the cockpit.  Nice!

Traveler Update:  May 2010

After some thought and discussion, we elected to do away with the traveler in May 2010.  Please follow this link for more information about the change, and reasoning behind it.

Winch Stands

The original winches were attached to some built-up wooden winch bases, which were bolted through the deck and screwed to the original coamings.  These were in bad condition, as they were all end grain, and were badly checked and dried.  Rather than construct new, similar pads, we decided to use some nice bronze winch bases.  These are manufactured by Spartan Marine; they are available through Defender as well.   They are heavy bronze castings, and quite attractive.

With the dodger installed, I determined the best location for the new stands, ensuring that the winch handle can make a complete turn without running into any obstructions.  The front of the winch stands ended up 41-1/2" aft of the front of the coaming in our case.  Installation was easy:  place the stand in the proper position and mark the four holes, then drill the deck and coaming.  On the inside of the coaming, I milled a countersink for the screwheads (1/4" x 1-1/2" silicone bronze flathead machine screws); I used hex head bolts of the same size on the two holes through the deck.  There is no core in the deck aft of the cabin trunk, so I didn't have to worry about sealing the core; I only milled a small countersink at the top of the holes to hold a little extra sealant right around the fasteners.  I secured the hex bolts from beneath with fender washers and nuts; I used regular washers and nuts on the two upper bolts.  Total installation of both sides took about 30 minutes or less, including cleanup of excess sealant.

We are not using the original Southcoast winches; instead, we purchased a pair of used Barient #24 two speed winches (non self-tailing) from The Marine Exchange in Peabody, MA.  They were a bargain and might be slightly oversized, but that may come in handy someday, and it's what they had for the right price.  

Installation involved removing the top of the winch to expose the base and bolt holes.  Then, it was a simple matter of drilling five, 5/16" holes through the winch pads for each winch.  The bronze drilled easily.  I bolted the winches with 5/16" bolts, washers, and nylock nuts--no sealant required--a nice bonus.

Cockpit Locker Hasps

The cockpit lockers did not appear to have had hasps on them.  These are necessary if you want to lock the lockers (we don't) and also if you anticipate any offshore sailing (we do) to keep the lockers tightly closed.

I found some bronze locking hasps at Hamilton Marine and installed them in a bed of polysulfide.  It's hardly worth going into...but here they are.



Stern Cleats and Chocks

sternchock.jpg (63668 bytes)sterncleat.jpg (33240 bytes)Amazing!  I actually reused something original!  I cleaned up the original stern cleats and straight chocks, applied several coats of clear lacquer, and installed them on the poop deck.  The cleats are secured with backing plates and fender washers, while the chocks are screwed into the taffrail.  Installation was straightforward, as there is no core to worry about in the poop deck.  The antique bronze, when finished with the clear lacquer, has a very nice look.

Bronze Cowl Vent

Another original piece that I reused was the huge, heavy bronze cowl vent that installs above the chain locker.  Although this was not on the boat when we purchased her, the previous owner sent it to us a few months later.  It was green, and the vent, which threads into a deck plate, was totally frozen in place.  On and off throughout the winter, I soaked the threads repeatedly with an industrial penetrating oil, and finally, after several months of this, I succeeded in removing the vent from the base.  I would not have reinstalled the vent if I hadn't been able to remove it from its base, as it may be necessary or desirable to remove it from time to time.  I was thrilled.  I sanded and polished the green oxidation off the exterior, but didn't even make an attempt to remove it from the inside.  As with the other reused bronze on board, I didn't spend too much time worrying about getting everything polished like new; I actually like a little of the old patina on there.  I sprayed several coats of clear lacquer over the vent.  To install the vent, I screwed it into the base as far as it would go, and marked the proper position on the raised circular portion of the foredeck where it was to be installed.  Then, I could unscrew the vent and install the base plate, keeping the alignment right so that the vent would end up facing straight forward when it was tightened all the way.  We'll probably make a canvas cover for it to cover it if we are sailing into heavy head seas, and/or a solid deck plate to replace the vent entirely.


Glissando, Pearson  Triton #381

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