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					Refit:  Winter 2008-2009
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					Winter 2008-2009 Refit | Saturday, April 11, 2009 
					 I spent part of the morning installing the display for 
					my new wind instruments--or what we call "Boat TV" (for the 
					surprisingly riveting enjoyment one can get whilst sitting 
					at anchor and watching the wind gusts and direction on the 
					display).
  Installation was straightforward in this 
					case.  First, I removed the display head from my 
					non-functioning old wind instruments, and the old power 
					cable back as far as the point where it was spliced into 
					"normal" wiring, in the engine room.  I also snipped 
					off the wind transducer cable as much as I could at both the 
					engine room end and the end where it exited in the head near 
					the mast step, but refrained from any attempts to completely 
					remove the old cable along its entire run, wherever I had 
					run it years earlier.  I also removed the old terminal 
					block and junction box from the head. | 
				 
				
					 
					
					     
					
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					 I aligned the supplied 
					cutting template with an existing hole in the bulkhead from 
					the old instruments; fortunately this was a small-ish hole, 
					not much larger than the wiring hole required for the 
					TackTick display, and even more fortunately it turned out 
					that the placement of the hole was such that the new 
					instrument would end up in a pleasing location, not oddly 
					spaced away from the existing depth/knotmeter display right 
					below.  So I could use the same hole, and simply marked 
					and drilled the three small holes for the fixing studs 
					required to hold the new display in place. | 
				 
				
					 
					
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					 With a length of sheathed 
					14/2 cable, which I chose for aesthetic reasons since the 
					cables would be exposed inside the boat (maybe someday I'll 
					cover over these exposed electronic wires), I made up the 
					connections to the back of the  display.  Since 
					the masthead wind transducer was wireless and solar powered, 
					this meant that I didn't have to run any cables other than 
					the display power supply--again, one of the main reasons I 
					chose the TackTick.  I removed the paper over the foam 
					gasket material on the back of the display, threaded in the 
					fixing studs, and installed it in the bulkhead through the 
					pre-drilled holes, securing it from behind with the supplied 
					thumbscrews.  I snipped off the excess length of the 
					brass fixing studs. | 
				 
				
					 
					
					     
					
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					 After making up the 
					wiring connections in the engine room and re-securing the 
					wires as needed, I tested the unit by first powering it up, 
					and then holding the masthead anemometer nearby and spinning 
					the cups and directional arrow to create "wind" on the 
					display.  Cool.   | 
				 
				
					 
					
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					 Next, I went outside 
					to the mast and pulled out the old anemometer cable and 
					removed the base unit from the masthead.  This also led 
					to me removing the protective hose that I'd used over the 
					mast wires for years, which had become rather nasty-looking 
					and which I'd been meaning to replace anyway.  Back in 
					2001, after the initial project, I'd simply stuffed the mast 
					end of the hose into the large hole in the spar that had 
					already been there, but now I wanted to install something 
					nicer.  I ordered a 1" rail base to which I could 
					attach the new hose (1-1/8" ID to fit over the rail base and 
					also to match up with my 1-1/8" fitting in the deck), and 
					would install that once it arrived next week. | 
				 
				
					 
					
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					 I'd installed the old 
					anemometer base unit atop a wooden block that I screwed and 
					epoxied to the masthead casting.  The old block was in 
					fine shape, but to better allow the new base mount to fit, 
					with an anchor light bracket located immediately next to the 
					old block, I decided to add a second block; because the 
					masthead casting here had a downward angle facing forward, I 
					made the new block angled to provide a level (with the 
					waterline) surface on which to secure the new base, which 
					would have the effect of raising the business end of the 
					anemometer a bit higher and more in the clear.  It was 
					too cold out for epoxy, so I held off on the final 
					installation of the new block and base mount for now. | 
				 
				
					 
					
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					 Working at the masthead 
					reminded me that I'd meant to order a new anchor light, so I 
					came inside and ordered a new Orca Green (OGM) LED 
					all-around white anchor light with photodiode, along with a 
					side-mount bracket, to replace my semi-functional-of-late 
					Davis Mega Light. | 
				 
				
					 
					     
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					 I rounded out the day with 
					some odds and ends.  A week or two ago, I'd overbored 
					and filled some old screw holes in the deck where I secured 
					the angled gate braces for my aftermost stanchions, forward 
					of the opening portion, since the old holes, for 
					self-tapping screws, were getting ragged and ineffective, 
					since I remove these every winter for storage.  With 
					the holes now filled, I redrilled and tapped for 1/4-20 x 
					1/2" pan head machine screws, and then secured the gate 
					braces accordingly with the new screws and sealant.
  I 
					also installed new chainplate deck covers.  For years, 
					I'd made simple covers out of wood, a quick-fix that I'd 
					come up with in desperation the first year when I discovered 
					that some pre-manufactured deck covers I had hoped to use 
					wouldn't fit because of the chainplates' close proximity to 
					the toerails.  This solution worked fine for years, and 
					through three different sets of wooden covers, but I always 
					meant to do something better.  Now was the time. 
					 Sticking with the more-or-less readily available 
					Schaefer chainplate covers that matched the chainplates I 
					had, I marked each where it interfered with the toerail and 
					cut off the excess down on the bench using a grinder and 
					cutoff wheel.  Then, I drilled two new screw holes 
					further up the plate, since modifying the end resulted in 
					the destruction of the original holes.
  Up on the 
					boat, I drilled and tapped the deck to accept #8-32 x 1/2" 
					panhead machine screws, milled small countersinks at the top 
					of each hole for sealant, and then installed the chainplate 
					covers with lots of sealant beneath. leaving the excess 
					alone to cure for now (I'd taped around the bases before 
					installation). | 
				 
				
					 
					
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					 After a couple seasons 
					where we sailed with only one anchor and roller on the bow, 
					I found that I missed having the second anchor ready to go, 
					mainly during a couple of cruising situations where an 
					emergency need for the second anchor could have easily 
					arisen (though ultimately it did not both times).  
					While I'd carried a spare "real" anchor in a cockpit locker, 
					and had two additional anchors on board (one stern Danforth, 
					one spare Danforth stored on the coachroof), the lack of 
					readiness of a second anchor bothered me these couple times.  
					So I decided to reinstall my second anchor roller this 
					season, which was a simple matter of securing four bolts. | 
				 
				
					 
					
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					Total time today:  
					5.25 hours
					
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