Budget Guidelines
This page was last updated on 23 January 2002.
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After numerous requests and much
procrastination, I have taken some time to post some of the most significant
expenses related to our restoration of Glissando. We incurred many of
these expenses by conscious choice--that is, a decision was made to replace an
item or go with something top of the line because of our overall involvement
with the project and increasingly high expectations.
Originally, I thought we'd end up spending
between $15,000 and $20,000 to bring the boat back the way I wanted it. We
exceeded this seemingly worst-case proposed budget by a factor of 2--partly
because of (somewhat) unexpected expenses, and partly because we chose to
restore the boat to a high level. This certainly lends credence to the
well-known mantra that you need to double your budget for any given
project. We were almost spot-on (double the estimate). The total
amount spent includes virtually "everything you see here" on the
website--sails, canvas, engine (2), interior, paint, varnish, woodwork, running
and standing rigging, original purchase price, propane system, and so on.
With all of that factored in, it doesn't seem quite so bad--and we have an
essentially new boat inside a classic shell.
The total is for the "turn-key"
boat, as she is now, with all equipment that's on board. Perhaps some of
these costs should be categorized differently than under the restoration project
heading, but I feel that they mostly represent the minimum equipment required
for any boat, new or used, and should be factored into the total budget for a
restoration project such as this. The figure represents what we spent to
get out and sailing in a boat we were happy and comfortable with.
Virtually any used boat we might buy would require certain upgrades to meet
those criteria.
Why did we go over the top so much?
There were several reasons:
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Unforeseen replacement of some equipment
that originally we thought we'd reuse
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Desire for the best product for a given
task
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Desire for a high level of finish and
increasingly high expectations for the completed project--otherwise known as
the "might as well" syndrome
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No corners cut!
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Aggressive scope of project and schedule
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Lack of usable equipment that came with
boat. There was pretty much nothing worthwhile at all (sails,
hardware, safety gear--all the usual stuff)
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A definite inherent desire on my part to
have a beautiful vessel to be proud of, and unwillingness to settle for
anything but. My boat is my favorite possession, and I only like them
one way: nice. This is just how I am, and I pay dearly for it!
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We thought we'd reuse the Atomic 4.
That went by the wayside in a couple months. The used diesel we chose
was a bust, and we ended up with a new diesel. These costs were not
anticipated at the onset.
-
We thought at first that we'd have two
usable, if old and worn, sails to use for a season or so. The old
genoa ended up being rotten and the mainsail, while OK and usable, just
wasn't up to expectations. Result: two new sails.
-
I went over the top on the electrical
system with a complex monitoring and charging setup.
Unnecessary? Yes. But I wanted it. It required a lot of
additional wiring, much of it heavy, expensive--but high quality--2/0
battery cable.
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The total amount spent includes all the
stuff that can be easily taken for granted on a used boat: lifejackets
and safety gear, lines, sailing hardware, winches, cushions, sailcovers,
dodgers...all of this stuff had to be bought new. None of it was
pre-existing, and it's all included in the total project cost below.
Ways to Cut Costs
There are only two ways to cut costs:
buy products for less, or cut quality. We did not skimp on the quality of
any materials or equipment, nor would we at any time in the future. In
purchasing materials and equipment for the boat, I attempted to be as thrifty as
possible within reasonable means. To a large extent, this allowed me to
find the best price on certain items--shopping around definitely pays off in
many cases.
(All hail the Internet, without which this
project would have been substantially more difficult! Please bow and kiss
your modem, and join me in silent thanks.)
However, sometimes, convenience takes
over. In doing a project, sometimes you need something now.
This means heading to your local hardware store or West Marine and buying it,
despite the fact that a better price might be available elsewhere. I tried
to avoid this as much as possible--and largely succeeded for most of the larger
portions of the project. However, where I found this to be less successful
was towards the end of the job (particularly January through May 2001) when I
was involved in the completion stages of so many systems and projects on the
boat. When you're in the middle of a job and really need some parts to
finish that, despite your best efforts, you neglected to include in your
original order--you need to go get those parts. Waiting for mail order or
some such is not an option if you plan to maintain a schedule.
Other materials are not applicable for mail
order because of the shipping charges that might be incurred. So-called
hazardous materials like epoxy resin, paints, and solvents come to mind--most
shipping merchants will apply stiff surcharges for shipping these items.
Therefore, while you might find a better price elsewhere, if it's not in driving
distance for you, you might as well come to terms with purchasing these items
locally, regardless of price. Of course, this does not mean that you
shouldn't find the best local price. In my area, there are two good marine
suppliers that I used heavily for project materials. Usually one was less
expensive than the other, but sometimes they didn't have what I needed.
I suppose I feel somewhat defensive because I
know that I purchased items for more than I might have found them
elsewhere. However, I needed to keep the project moving, and I didn't have
time to shop every single item to death. Some of the less-expensive
suppliers (namely Sailnet.com and Defender) often let me down with backorders
and non-availability when I needed to order something. In these instances,
I would often order from West Marine because they had it in stock--now--and I
knew I could count on having it in hand in a couple days. Other times, the
delay would not bother me and I'd stick with the other suppliers. The
point is that any way you shake it, you're going to get bargains on some items,
and pay the regular street price for others. Proper planning and careful
listing of materials needed for any portion of the project will get you a long
way, but you are guaranteed to forget certain items no matter how organized you
are.
The worst: fasteners! No matter
how much you try to plan, no matter how careful you are, it seems that you
always run out of screws in the middle of something, or always find that
you needed a bolt that was a little longer or shorter. I tried to always
buy full boxes of almost any fastener type I needed, regardless of how many I
needed (there were exceptions to this, of course)--but even so, it's impossible
to always have what you need in stock. This means yet another trip to your
favorite local store for more, so that you can finish whatever you're in the
middle of. In the final months of the project, 45-minute round trip into
Portland to Hamilton Marine and/or West Marine (plus shopping time) became an
almost daily event. There was just no avoiding it.
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The Scary Stuff
Below I've tried to relay some of the costs of
the project that are included in our overall total expenditure. I kept
careful track of every expense, but unfortunately didn't itemize some of them as
well as I might have. That is: I have the totals spent accounted for
down to the penny, but can't take that total and break it down as much as I
might like. (I'll do that for the next restoration project!)
But, anyway--here are some of the more major expenses for what we did.
Obviously, these are specific to our project, and are certainly not cast in
stone. Where possible, I've included specifications or comments that may
in determining the feasibility or applicability of any given item for your own
project.
Description |
Actual
Cost |
Comments/Specifications |
Purchase Price |
$2000 |
Asking price was $2500. $150
transport cost to our house. |
Boat Shed Materials |
$500 |
Not including recycled material from
previous structure constructed the year before. Estimated savings:
$100. Also includes additional lumber for staging construction and
plastic for the shed skin. |
Fiberglass Material |
$203 |
24 oz. Woven Roving & 6 oz. Cloth |
Fiberglass/Recore Supplies |
$2100 |
Epoxy, acetone, mat, core, respirator
cartridges, misc. supplies. Respirator cartridges are expensive,
and I changed them often. Core is cheap; epoxy expensive.
You need lots of acetone. |
Sandpaper |
$500 |
Scary, isn't it? |
Awlgrip and Painting Supplies |
$2700 |
Awlgrip topcoat and converter, primer, reducer,
cleaning solvents; Interlux Brightside for limited interior use;
Interlux Bilgekote for lockers and bilge; brushes ($25 apiece for
Awlgrip single use), buckets, mixing pails, and sundries; Epifanes
varnish |
Yanmar SB12 Engine (Used) |
$2135 |
Includes $235 Shipping. Engine later
was removed and sold. |
Yanmar 2GM20F Engine (New) |
$6800 |
Includes new controls, flexible coupling,
and new propeller ($369) |
Shafting, etc. |
$1342 |
Includes 7/8" SS prop shaft, coupling,
stuffing box, 3-blade Sailer prop ($308), cutless bearing, Drivesaver,
new SS rudder shaft w/welded ears ($390) |
Plywood/Hardwood |
$1600 |
Interior bulkheads, finish trim, cockpit
coamings, toerail, sea hood, etc. (complete) See a photo
of what this money buys you... |
Liner Fabric for Cabin |
$255 |
Head and vee berth |
All new standing rigging |
$897 |
Includes turnbuckles, jumper struts |
Double lifelines, new; 5/16" |
$555 |
|
Stanchions and pulpits |
$1900 |
Stanchions, pulpits, bases; 26" height |
Alternator, regulator, monitor |
$1344 |
Including associated equipment for
installation. 133 amp alternator, 3-step regulator, digital
monitor. System E/Next from www.jackrabbitmarine.com |
Wiring, connectors, etc. |
$1200 |
Ancor 14 and 12 AWG, all tinned; Ancor
heat-shrink waterproof crimp connectors. Includes 100' of 2/0
battery cable used for EMON system. |
Roller Furler |
$1365 |
Schaeffer 1100 |
Mainsail |
$1470 |
Full Batten, 2 |
130% genoa |
$1260 |
Sunbrella UV cover, foam luff |
Dodger |
$1600 |
Worth every cent |
Vinyl graphics (name/port) |
$109 |
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Batteries |
$192 |
2x Trojan T-105 (6 volt); 1 Trojan group 24
starting battery |
Hose, plumbing supplies; engine exhaust
system, fuel system, fresh water system, sanitation system |
$2000 |
ROUGH estimate for all hose and
clamps used--exhaust, fuel, fresh water, etc. All clamps are AWAB
all stainless solid-band. Includes Lavac toilet, flexible holding
tank and associated; includes 3 foot pumps for water system, galley and
head sinks, and associated. |
Used Barient #24 winches (2) |
$367 |
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35# CQR and URM-1 Anchor Roller |
$620 |
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Wood blinds for salon |
$301 |
www.smithandnoble.com |
Garhauer solid boom vang |
$260 |
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Garhauer blocks for mainsheet, genoa, etc. |
$214 |
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Safety Equipment/running rigging |
$740 |
Not itemized; includes fire extinguishers,
life jackets, flares, placards, etc. Also includes running
rigging. |
Interior cushion materials |
$653 |
Includes fabric and 6" foam for vee
berth; 4" foam in salon |
Propane System |
$1600+ |
Includes stove/oven, horizontal aluminum
tank, fuel line, regulator, solenoid, alarm, and associated fittings. |
TOTAL: |
$38,782 |
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If you factor in the various bits and pieces that
are left out of this matrix--things that I could not or did not itemize in my
records keeping, such as fasteners and miscellaneous supplies--the total ends up
somewhat over $40,000. This does not include returns, sale of the old
Yanmar and Atomic Four engines, and other adjustments. This total (40K) is
for the complete boat, to date, and includes electronics, basic equipment,
etc. The good news: there is little remaining to be done, from a financial
perspective. The boat is in excellent condition and requires only some
finishing touches. The other good news: it's all paid for.
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Fixed Costs (Relatively Speaking)
OK, you've seen the figures above.
Perhaps you're frightened--I am! However, rest assured: many of
these costs were specific to our own boat, our own project, and our own desires
and expectations. We outfitted the boat with the intention of doing a lot
of cruising--not offshore cruising or bluewater, but extensive, open-ended,
non-scheduled coastal cruising that might lead further afield.
Therefore, comfort, reliability, and a homey atmosphere were among the most
important factors in our restoration. This led to creating a warm, cozy
interior with a very usable galley. Perhaps your own needs differ; that
can be factored into (read: subtracted from) the overall cost above.
Does the basic interior of your boat meet your needs, perhaps with only a little
fresh paint and new cushion covers? Obviously this will cost significantly
less. Your exterior paint choice may be different, and there are
substantial savings to be had here in initial outlay depending, once again, upon
your expectations.
So, what would I consider to be relatively
fixed restoration costs for a typical old boat like a Triton or similar
design? Within a few percentage points either direction, I would say that
my costs for fiberglass, epoxy resin and supplies, and related tools/sundries
should be considered fairly constant for a similar scope of work when
comparing identical projects--apples to apples. You could save by
purchasing epoxy in bulk--something that I wish I had done. But even so,
the savings might be maxed out at 10% over my own costs. Frankly, the
project consumed more epoxy and fillers than I ever imagined, so I erred in
purchasing the stuff by the gallon.
Virtually all of the other costs are more
subjective--that is, it very much depends on your own individual boat, your
plans, and your desires. But I would guess that, within, say, 10% either
direction, each of my costs could be used for estimating purposes on any given,
specific category--for the same scope of work. There are exceptions, of
course.
Is it possible to do the exact same project
for less money in materials? Almost certainly so. I have no
disillusions about that and know that in some cases I paid more than absolute
rock-bottom. I've discussed my reasons for this in the paragraphs
above--sometimes convenience, rather than lowest cost, rules the day. From
a practical standpoint, though, and under a fixed, aggressive project
schedule, I'd say that these costs are pretty reasonable and mainstream.
If you can really get your act together, and make a detailed listing of every
item you think you need for a project, you could likely save substantially by
shopping your entire order around to various suppliers for purchase all at
once. This means, of course, that you need to be able to have the money
available all at once also, rather than piecemeal. For us, it was feasible
to spread out the costs over the project period, while coming up with the lump
sum up front would have been a real challenge. Doing it our way, we
avoided a loan of any sort--all expenditures were paid immediately.
Would we do it again?
In a word: yes. Did we spend too
much? Yes. Do we begrudge any of the money spent making the boat the
way she is? Absolutely not! Is the boat worth what we have into
it? Not from a purely technical sense. But to us, she is. And
we couldn't get a better boat for our total investment. Everything is all
new; that's hard to beat. And I know the boat inside and out, upside down
and straight.
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